Padded sword construction question

[Jason Taylor]

Hi All,

I'm just about to get started on my first padded sparring longsword. I've made a mace and a morningstar already, to cut my teeth on something a bit easier, and I've also constructed a rapier simulator. I've also constructed about a zillion boffers in my time.

So far, no major problems have arisen. But I was looking at the instructions for the padded oak-slat sparring swords on the site here, and I had a quick question: how are the aluminum bars attached? Are they tabed on or glued in place? The instructions seems to say that they are "placed" on the side, but doesn't really go nto further detail as to attachment (unless I missed it). I would instinctively want to glue them on, to keep any possible sliding of the balance point or tearing through of the foam from happening.

I'd appreciate any guidance anyone can provide. Thanks,

Jason

[Will Adamson]

I taped mine with duct tape. Use a very conservative amount so as not to upset the weight distribution.

I have managed to refoam mine when they have gotten chewed up. The oak slats and aluminum bars have stayed pretty intact, so I've just reused them. I think some folks have had them break in the past.

The new plastic wasters seem to be a better way to go from the few exchanges I've used them in.

[david welch]

I have managed to refoam mine when they have gotten chewed up. The oak slats and aluminum bars have stayed pretty intact, so I've just reused them. I think some folks have had them break in the past.

Just keep them away from Norwood.

He has no idea of the concept "conserve the training materials".

[Shane Smith]

I have managed to refoam mine when they have gotten chewed up. The oak slats and aluminum bars have stayed pretty intact, so I've just reused them. I think some folks have had them break in the past.

Just keep them away from Norwood.

He has no idea of the concept "conserve the training materials".

Matt and I both likewise break the older wooden slat weapons like match-sticks

[Will Adamson]

Well he did use one of mine back in October, but he was probably not yet back to his full destructive form then. He did really chew up the foam, but the cores are fine.

I did notice one of mine flex quite a bit when it hit a helmet. I was worried that it had broken, but it hadn't.

If it isn't a difference in our relative vindictivness in beating others about the head, perhaps we have had different luck with wood quality.

[Brian Hunt]

I have gone to using different cores than the wood/aluminum ones. I break those way too fast for the amount of work that goes into one. I use the plastic top rails from typical plastic lattice fence supplies in your standard hardware store and hot glue 1/4 inch steel rods into the U-channel of the rail piece. I am experimenting with some pretty hefty fiberglass rod kite spar cores I ordered from a larp sword site. These may be the answer I am looking for for a tough, unbreakable, light core.

all the best.

Brian Hunt
GFS

http://www.paulushectormair.com