Newbie DIY waster question

[Liz MacHaffie]

Hi all!

I'm new to this and am looking to make my own wasters. I've cobbled together ideas from across this forum and think I'm headed in the right direction. I've just a couple questions I couldn't find the answers to...

1. Is there an ideal thickness (or a range) that the wood I buy should be? (I'm planning on using a hard maple.)

2. Should the grip and thickest part of the blade be the same thickness? (I'm under the impression that it's best to cut one long "blank" piece of wood that will run from the tip to the pommel, resulting in both being the same thickness, unless modified.)

Sorry for the probably very easy questions, just want to make sure I make the best waster I can! I'll happily post my design, construction, and pros and cons of the resulting wasters if it'd be useful to other members. (Even if it's total rubbish, may save others from my mistakes, ha.)

[John Young]

If I remember correctly, I started with 1 1/4 of thickness.
My grip and thickest part of the blade are the same.



I reckon Heath is the one that really knows how make wasters. Maybe he will chime in.

[Liz MacHaffie]

Thank you very much John! Your older posts were very helpful to me in my design as well. Much appreciated!

[Heath Wilson]

Thank you very much John! Your older posts were very helpful to me in my design as well. Much appreciated!

Hi Liz, I'd be happy to help you.

First, I can't recommend hickory high enough, it is the most impact resistant wood there is. You want to make sure that the grain lines are as straight as possible and continue from one end to the other without running off the sides. You want the thickness to be at least 1.1 inches to start, but thicker is better-you have more room for error.

When you cut your blank you want the blade width at the cross to be about double your blade width at the tip, this helps drastically with weight distribution. I also continue that taper all the way to the end of the handle, so you are essentially cutting out a triangle.That way the square handle makes it easier to hold your blade steady against the work table while cutting/grinding the edge bevels.

When cutting/grinding your edge bevels, make sure to leave about a 1/2 inch before the cross square, you will want to recess this into the cross to support the end of the grains. If you don't it will tend to split. Make that it is just slightly thicker, (about 0.1-0.2) than your handle. this will give you a firm stop to place your cross against. I also tap a few brads (I use 8, 3 on each edge and one on each flat) into the gap between the cross and handle. this will firmly shim it into place and make it much more impact resistant. Even the best epoxy can crack under the kind of impact the those crosses can receive. The shims can help prevent that.

Hope that helps! If you have any other questions, feel free to ask.

[Liz MacHaffie]

Thank you very much, Heath, for so much info and helpful tips! Got some info and can certainly get my hands on some good hickory around here. That's a beautiful one you linked to, it looks like you've worked hard at perfecting them. You may be getting an order from me if I botch mine up, haha. Many thanks!

[Liz MacHaffie]

Ah, I do have one more!

In terms of the distal taper, is there any minimum thickness the tip shouldn't fall below? (I'm planning a 36" long blade, with the wood originally starting at 1.25" thick, probably hexagonal cross-section)

[Kevin Reicks]

Ah, I do have one more!

In terms of the distal taper, is there any minimum thickness the tip shouldn't fall below? (I'm planning a 36" long blade, with the wood originally starting at 1.25" thick, probably hexagonal cross-section)

I don't think you need much of a distill taper. I don't have much of one on my home made waster. I own a NSA German longsword waster, very well crafted and balanced. I can't see much of a distill taper on it either.

I own the ugliest home made waster in existence that still has balance, overall weight is ok, and is robust. Start out making everything kinda bigger then need be all the while taking off extra wood/weight as need be. I also drilled in the pommel with a .5" drill bit stuck in a couple of all lead .50cal muzzle load hunting bullets for counterweight which helps balance.

I am not a carpenter, just a guy who wanted to have some fun and save a little $$ making his own. Take my advice if you have as minimal experience and/or don't have the best tools to work with like I did. If you have more experience and better tools, I encourage going for the gusto and making one like John.

[Liz MacHaffie]

Thank you very much, Kevin! I'll plan on not having one then.

Picking up my supplies today! Thank you all so much for the help. Hopefully I'll be able to contribute to your discussions in helpful ways, too, as soon as I can get some good study and practice under my belt.

[Heath Wilson]

I do use a distal taper as well. From cross to tip it tapers about 20%. This makes a HUGE difference in the handling.

Sorry it took me so long to reply, I apparently didn't have email notifications turned on...

[Liz MacHaffie]

Thanks very much Heath! Just finishing it up now. Will see if I can't get that taper in...