Keeping Sharps Sharp

[ColinWheeler]

Hail, swordsibs, and well met.
I have had a number of Sword-Like Object "replicas" over the years, but have never put a great deal of effort into sharpening them...mostly because I quickly discovered how unsuitable most of them were for actually cutting things. I have some modest skill at sharpening knives; my kitchen knives, and the 4" CaseXX folding lockback I wear and use daily, I keep quite sharp.
However, the tabletop diamond hones I use to keep my knives sharp are not nearly large enough to be practical to sharpen a sword. What are the best methods for maintaining a cutting sword's edge? How does one sharpen a blade with a non-linear edge bevel (i.e. a convex "appleseed" bevel looks much harder to maintain than the simple flat grind I use on most of my knife blades).
I have been thinking that perhaps a very fine grit (180 or 220) belt for my belt sander might work nicely, but I am not sure about how to set up a jig to maintain a very consistent angle. I am in the process of picking out and ordering a sharp for test cutting, and I plan to put the same care into my new swords (who can stop at one? <img src="/forum/images/icons/cool.gif" alt="" /> ) that I do into all my edged tools, for work or play.
Any suggestions would be much appreciated...after all, if I can't keep my cutting blades sharp, I might as well just buy theatrical blunts for bashing tatami mats and have done <img src="/forum/images/icons/tongue.gif" alt="" />

Colin

[Allen Johnson]

Now when you say "sword like objects" that usually means the are horribly ballanced, stainless steel, Pakistan made things that never historically existed. Replicas, on the other hand can be well made if based off good originals. Stainless steel and the like is not meant to be used and therefore not intended to be sharpened. To do so could make it quite weak (well, more weak than it is to begin with) and quite dangerous. Just my view.

[DavidEvans]

"Stainless steel and the like is not meant to be used and therefore not intended to be sharpened."

That just has to be answered with two words. Sheffield Steel. To whit. The ranges of stainless steel kitchen knives in various sizes, shapes and tasks. I don't think I need to point out their fundemental requirment to be sharp. Nor do I need to point out the types of small swords/large knives in use that are "Kitchen knife" shaped.

[ColinWheeler]

By Sword-Like Objects, in this case anyway, I mean a variety of blades made with good craftsmanship, but little knowledge of the proper functioning of the blade. I have a sword made from L6 and another made from 95D2 carbon tool steel. The D2 sword is vastly overweight, the other has an edge bevel more suited to clubbing seals than cutting armor or flesh. I make no apologies for these things; they were purchased when my understanding of swords (and their use) was much less sophisticated.
BTW, stainless steel sharpens quite nicely if it is properly made...it is just not a suitable material for a LARGE blade like a sword. It works fine in flat or hollow ground blades under 14" that are not meant for cleaving hard materials. I have a stainless drop point skinner that has an edge a razor would envy...but I would never consider whacking someone wearing a riveted byrnie with it...luckily, none of the rabbits or deer in my area have adopted metalic or composite armors. <img src="/forum/images/icons/wink.gif" alt="" />
Colin Wheeler

[Casper Bradak]

Stainless is fine for knives and daggers, and sharpens just fine, but lacks a few qualities desirable in a good sword blade and should be avoided in swords whenever possible.
For sharpening, I went to a local antique store and purchased a pedal driven sharpening wheel. They're not uncommon as people like to use them as garden decorations. They do good work on my swords. If a sword comes particularly blunt, you'll need to put the bevel on with a file before sharpening and smoothing it out.

[Ryan Ricks]

there are commercial sharpening stones you can buy like from the grizzley tool catalouge. they spin nice and slowly in a water bath. the motor and setup is pretty nice, but the stone itself is pretty soft and will wear out quickly. although it'll do the job, they don't stack up to the antique ones, which i've also used

ryan

[Shane Smith]

I rough in an edge with a bastard file and then clean up with an Arkansas stone.