padded sparring swords - an inexpensive method

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david welch
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Re: padded sparring swords - an inexpensive method

Postby david welch » Sat Sep 25, 2004 9:03 pm

Jeanry,

PM me your ship to address, and I'll let you know when I get the cores shipped your way. It should only take a couple of days.
"A sword never kills anybody; it is a tool in the killer's hand." Lucius Annaeus Seneca 4BC-65AD.

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JeanryChandler
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Re: padded sparring swords - an inexpensive method

Postby JeanryChandler » Tue Sep 28, 2004 5:25 pm

Maybe we can put one together with your core and my foam technique, and then send it Hong Kong for Lance to add his cool silver covering and make it the worlds best ever "vorpal" sparring sword!

J
"We can't all be saints"
John Dillinger

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Jason Donahue
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Re: padded sparring swords - an inexpensive method

Postby Jason Donahue » Tue Sep 28, 2004 6:55 pm

You can get that blue camping pad foam in sheets (rolls) at any Wal-mart for $5. Maybe a little more at just about any camping store. That is enough to make 4 or 5 swords. The blue stuff is IMO a lot better than the pink corrugated foam you were using, you can also cut it out with scissors into patterns to make pole -arm heads and axes and all kinds of things.


Jeanry,

I've been considering this for a bit to make a sparring axe (modeled after Cold Steel's battleaxe ), but I'm wondering how well it would hold up for some of Silver's wards, such as the ones recreated on this site on the right side of the page.

I'm considering trying to build my own "axe waster" out of a wooden dowl and a waxed leather head, since that'd probably hold up a bit better. Any thoughts?

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JeanryChandler
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Re: padded sparring swords - an inexpensive method

Postby JeanryChandler » Tue Sep 28, 2004 7:22 pm

Thats a really nice little page on Silvers axe play, thanks for listing that link. I didn't even know Silver coverd the use of the axe.

I do have an axe which I use a lot., I made it with a Sch 80 pvc core, tubular foam pipe insulation for the haft (cut out a bit right where I tend to grip it) and a blade made of that camping pad foam. (I think it is important to pad the haft as you will be striking with it. I also pad the butt especialy thoroughly)

It held up well for two years and then finally broke this spring when I was sparring with an escrima fighter who was using unpadded rataan sticks. After that I reinforced it with some strips of that thin orthopedic foam I use for my sword flats, and since then it has held up very well

I don't have my digital camera handy right now so I can't take a picture, but you can just barely make it out in my hands in this clip:

http://bellsouthpwp.net/d/e/deodand23/Clips/JR-skip.mpg

This can give you an idea of the durability, you can see me hit the shield rim hard. (For those who might be tempted to criticize my form, we were just playing around!)

My axe is 40", so longer than the cold steel axe but shorter than the axe-waster on that Silver page, and at about 2 pounds 4 ounces, it's a little light though roughly in the ball park for an historical axe from the early medieval perod which is what I was trying to emulate (Specificaly a norse bearded axe). As you probably know, battle axes tended to have much slimmer and lighter heads than the equivelent farmers tools (wood hewing axes). For the record I also think that Cold Steel, while making very nice sharp functional blades, tends to make all of their historical based weapons too heavy. Their Gross Messer is over 4lbs, for example.

Despite it's relatively short length I have had pretty good luck using this thing as a two handed weapon, though I like it with a shield or more rarely, with another shorter weapon, a hatchet or a short sword as in the clip.

I used to also have a really nice kern axe I liked to use a lot but I gave it to my neighborhood Irish pub "Finn MacCools" when the owner evinced an interest in it.

I also have a 7' Bill which a lot of y'all saw at Southern Knights which is made the same way.

Overall, after being careful reinforcing with the tape (doing a lot of cross-reinforcement) I think this technique works quite well. I have put both my axe and bill through some pretty heavy abuse including many blade parries and hooking shields and even pepoles legs, and just about everything else you can think of.

One other word of caution, even on the lighter end of the scale these things can have quite an impact, especially if you make it five feet long as they were suggesting. One other thing you might want to also do is to make open cell foam striking edges, I did this on the axe. It's basically the same technique as the 'thrusting tips' you put on swords or spears, except along the edge.

Anyway, after seeing that page I now want a bigger axe. Maybe I'll make a sparth axe or another kern axe. Thanks for inspiring...

DB
"We can't all be saints"

John Dillinger

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JeanryChandler
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Re: padded sparring swords - an inexpensive method

Postby JeanryChandler » Tue Sep 28, 2004 7:25 pm

Sorry, I forgot to mention this. I don't do much work with wooden wasters, but I bet you could contact the guy at Hollow Earth Swordworks and get some good ideas from him on making a wooden one.

J
"We can't all be saints"

John Dillinger

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Jason Donahue
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Re: padded sparring swords - an inexpensive method

Postby Jason Donahue » Tue Sep 28, 2004 8:48 pm

Cool! Thanks for the mpeg - it does look like that'll hold up pretty well, and has the added benefit of being cheap. Think I'm hitting Home Depot and Wal-Mart on my way home from work tonight. <img src="/forum/images/icons/smile.gif" alt="" />

I wish I could remember where the heck I found that link - it was either swordforum.com or axeforum.com, but it's given me a better feel for what Silver was talking about. It's had some issues loading recently, for some strange reasons, BTW.

The Kern axe is pretty interesting, and I've considered setting up one in the lengths that Silver described for the battleaxe. How long was yours, BTW? While I've seen the axe heads for sale on Albion's page, I haven't seen much info on their usual length, etc.

BTW, with langettes on, my CS battleaxe is about 2 3/4 lbs., which isn't all that bad. OTOH, the most comparable axe head I've seen to the CS one is a Viking Type L Breidöx that Albion sells, which is a bit bigger, for comparable weight. OTOH, considering I've seen similarly sized axes out there a full pound heavier, CS is hardly the only one to be a bit off. <img src="/forum/images/icons/wink.gif" alt="" />

Thanks for the info, and I'm glad I could help out a bit in return. <img src="/forum/images/icons/cool.gif" alt="" />

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JeanryChandler
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Re: padded sparring swords - an inexpensive method

Postby JeanryChandler » Wed Sep 29, 2004 12:11 am

Make sure you use the Sch 80 pvc, that way you can use a half inch thick core and it's actually stronger than the Sch 40 3/4"

I've only been able to find it (sch 80) at Lowes and plumbing supply stores though.

As for the kern axe, I based mine on that famous Albrecht Durer painting of the Gallowglass mercenaries visiting London in the 16th century. The two kern (Irish footsoldeirs) with the Gallowglass are carrying kern axes, which look like they are about 48" in total length. Anywhere from 4-5 feet is probably in the ball park from what (little) I know. I heard a rumor that Osprey books will be doing a book on Gallowglass, if so that should give us a good stab (no pun intended) at what these were really like!

Now your Sparth Axe or Bardiche on the other hand is going to be a good six feet long with an enormous curved blade nearly 16" long. I'm still not sure how Robert the Bruce figured out how to use one of those so effectively.

I found the little kern axe a great two handed weapon, you can hook and bind swords really well with the corner of the formidable 'blade' and yet you have this thrust with the point on it. It's like a small glaive. And it defend surprisingly well using methods a lot like what Silver appears to be reccomending for battle axes. I need to make a new one <img src="/forum/images/icons/wink.gif" alt="" />

J
"We can't all be saints"

John Dillinger

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JeanryChandler
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Re: padded sparring swords - an inexpensive method

Postby JeanryChandler » Wed Sep 29, 2004 12:15 am

One other thing, when you are putting together layers of foam one over another, whether the thin hard stuff onto the thicker blue camping pad or just two layers of that, I reccomend using that spray adhesive before you tape it together. It keeps the whole thing 'tighter' over a long life.


J
"We can't all be saints"

John Dillinger


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