Dagger Wasters

[RayMcCullough]

When making a dagger waster , does the wood have to be hickory? I didn't think it would matter since it was short and did not need to take the impacts required of a Longsword waster.

[Topher D. Scofield]

I'm certainly no expert on wasters or even types of wood, but I used to do some dagger work using pine wasters. They were cheap and directly from a Ren Faire, but a buddy and me wrapped them up in duct tape and wrapped string around the handles.

They held up fine in dagger-only sparring and even worked well when used as a companion with a rapier.

Granted, that was back when JC's first book had come out and I didn't have the resources to do much better. The rapier wasters we used were just taped up and rounded off tomato stakes.

[Shane Smith]

When making a dagger waster , does the wood have to be hickory? I didn't think it would matter since it was short and did not need to take the impacts required of a Longsword waster.

Mine are hickory, but I am inclined to think you are right. Hickory shouldn't be necessary for such a short simulator.

[JeffGentry]

Ray

I have a couple very nice padded dagger's i made from poplar dowel's bought at Lowes, and they have seen very heavy use and have help up well.

Jeff

[RayMcCullough]

How did you pad the dowels? Did you use a specific dagger design? ex... rondel,hilted dagger etc...

[Gene Tausk]

How did you pad the dowels? Did you use a specific dagger design? ex... rondel,hilted dagger etc...

I finally have something to contribute in terms of actually making a sparring weapon so I can add to the conversation! (hey, it's the little things in life that count )

OK - take a dowel - 2 inches in diameter, 12 inches in length. I use Pergo foam to make the sparring weapon. Pergo flooring uses a type of foam which insulates the floor before the Pergo is actually installed (I don't know the term of art but it is sold as part of the Pergo installation kits). Take the Pergo foam and make certain that there is enough to wrap around the dowel 3-4 times. Leave 2 inches of the foam exposed off the dowel for the "point" for thrusting attacks and leave 2-3 inches for the handle that should not be wrapped in Pergo foam.

Secure the whole thing with electrical or duct tape. Leave the handle free as much as possible of the tape. Wrap the tape completely around the foam.

Brad and I used these last week for about 20 minutes of sparring. One of the weapons did cut open exposing the foam that was not bound to the dowel (between the end of the dowel and the "point"), but I placed some filler material (more foam) between the dowel and the "point" and repaired the whole thing and we will be at it again next time.

The design is obviously a rondel.

I don't know the total cost because we have a bunch of Pergo foam that went unused until my brilliant flash of inspiration. The cost of a 25 inch dowel at The Home Depot was something like $2.00.

I'm certainly no Brian Hunt, but the weapons seemed to work well for sparring. As I said, one of the weapons did not hold up and we had to stop (well, actually we switche to another sparring weapon I had on hand), but hopefully with the repairs this will turn out to be a viable design.

Of course, always use eye protection when sparring.

[Jeffrey Hull]

You would need a dagger waster to be hickory (or equivalent) if you plan to parry sword and longsword wasters. Which can be done. So yes.

Tangent: It occured to me that various hammer, hatchet and hoe handles made of hickory are available in hardware stores for sale. Perhaps this is an idea that could be explored, as those things are already fairly well shapen. With various cutting, trimming and sanding, you may utilise such and save time and trouble perhaps.

[Nigel Plum]

We use rolled & taped magzines. They work pretty well for daga stuff, but I'm not sure how they would stand up to parrying wasters. On the other hand they are cheap enough to be disposable.

[Jay Vail]

When making a dagger waster , does the wood have to be hickory? I didn't think it would matter since it was short and did not need to take the impacts required of a Longsword waster.

I don't think it really matters. I have wasters made of hickory, red oak, plastic and aluminum, as well as a couple of padded sparring wasters made by Jeanry Chandler. They all work fine. I think the only time it makes a difference what the waster is made of is when you practice against a sword or pole weapon. Then you're going to have some impacts that could break a slightly built practice weapon.

[JeffGentry]

When making a dagger waster , does the wood have to be hickory? I didn't think it would matter since it was short and did not need to take the impacts required of a Longsword waster.

I don't think it really matters. I have wasters made of hickory, red oak, plastic and aluminum, as well as a couple of padded sparring wasters made by Jeanry Chandler. They all work fine. I think the only time it makes a difference what the waster is made of is when you practice against a sword or pole weapon. Then you're going to have some impacts that could break a slightly built practice weapon.

Hey Ray

I like a padded dowel dagger waster, I use alot of the Meyer " Arm Hooking" with the dagger and if it is something flexible like a mag./newspaper roll or the rubber training dagger from Revival/Chivalry you just do not get the hook or capture effect like a solid dagger(padded dowel).

For practicing most technique's though any of the above mentioned will work and are safe.


Jeff


Jeff

[RayMcCullough]

Thanks for the help everyone.