Hi Lance,
First let me say that I always look forward to looking at the videos you put on your website. I look for the good and the bad and analyze.
Reguarding your swings. The ones intended to be done with power such as the "squinting strike" should come from the hips. But one such as the "parting strike" comes from the elbows. In the case of the "parting strike" you are intentionaly trying to outreach your opponent. So you have to anylize on a strike by strike basis.
Now lets talk about the striking effects on the blade. This is an area of great interest to me and I have done a lot of research on. You can view my entire work here:
http://mysite.verizon.net/tsafa1/swordreview.htm
I will present four blades to you which I have tested and practiced with extensivly and know inside out. I will tell you the pros and the cons I have found.
The first is the most recent addition to my collection, The Generation 2 Lucerin Prince. This is a light quick 3 lb sword. Upon banging it around a little the tip of my blade took on a shape similar to yours. I had to straighten it out with pliers and grind it down with my sharpening stone to get it straight. The blade has a dimond cross-section but is thin compared to the other blades I will illustrate. This blade is has a fine point but due to its thiness it will fold if you try to thrust into any hard leather. This blade is ideal for unarmored dueling. I suspect your blade has similar light and thin characteristics such as this one. This sword costs about $240 with shipping. Here is what it looks like:
Next I have my Valient Armory Black Prince. This one is a bit more heavy duty then the G2 Lucerin Prince. I beat it on my tires for over a year and a half. The tip did NOT loose its shape. I found that it did fold up a bit on the thrust so this is also best suited for unarmored combat. By folding I mean it flexed to the side. When I relieved the presure it came back to its normal position. The dimond-cross section on this one was a bit thicker which made it less sharper but it kept its shape. It cost $160 with shipping. Here is what it looks like:
Next take a look at my my G2 Black Prince. This one has a thick cross-section and and less of a tapered point. I can thrust through the sidewall of my tires and it will not fold. Thrusting through leather and rubber is somewhat difficult because it does not have that fine point so it requires greater force to overcome the resistance. It has kept its shape and is sharp dispite its thickness because the wider blade allows more room for a gradual grinding. This sword is much more blade heavy then the other two before. It is a very good cutting blade but requires great effort to reverse direction. It cost about $240 with shipping. You can see it here:
Finaly I present my Valiant Armory Degesse. This is a one hand sword but I think it has the best combination of blade tapering (pointyness) and blade thickness. With this sword I can easily thrust into the sidewall of the tire, with just one hand. It never folds. I have beat my tires to no end with this blade and looks new. The Blade cross-section is thick enough to put a good edge on but pointy enough for the perfect thrust. I wish I could get a longer hand and half version on this. I would make the base thiner and lighten the pommol. Also I think there is too much wood in the handle. The Degesse costs $170 with shipping. This is what it looks like:
Let me know if I can provide any further information so we can get a better comparison. Lance would you also post the length and wight of the sword you have pictured.