care and feeding a sword?

[GaryGrzybek]

Sure, grease is a great way to keep rust away but do you really want that mess all over your sword? <img src="/forum/images/icons/frown.gif" alt="" />

[Shane Smith]

"Sure, grease is a great way to keep rust away but do you really want that mess all over your sword? "...Or in your scabbard?
<img src="/forum/images/icons/shocked.gif" alt="" />

[Aaron Pynenberg]

Yes, I had the same thought to the animal fat idea, but the vasoline is still something I am thinking about. I should add that he had a thin coat of it on and it was not messy at all, but the hilt was also brass (the whole thing) so there was no leather on it like mine. I did not get my scabbard yet, and really do not have any expirence with them, I was wondering I saw somewhere, on a post or maybe an add for a scabbard that talked about the inside being a pre-oiled scabbard, is it good to have oil in the scabbard or should it be dry and free of oil?

Thanks Aaron

[James_Knowles]

In my experience, the most important thing is to ensure it's cleaned up ASAP and stored correctly. The rest are mainly details. Experiment with various products, but if your sword will be used for drilling, I suspect it won't suffer from closet rot. <img src="/forum/images/icons/grin.gif" alt="" />


Two of my biggest mistakes with metal were:

1) Leaving a sword with some dampness overnight.
2) Leaving my WWII Mauser 12 hours after firing old Turkish ammo through it before cleaning (yes, corrosive primer).

#1 was completely covered in rust with some pitting. I was completely stunned at how drastic and complete the rust was.
#2 badly pitted what was an immaculate barrel. Crap.

I've never had problems as long as a blade has been wiped down with machine oil on a cloth, but I've never owned a sword that I haven't thrashed to death.

BTW, to take out ordinary scratches I start with 600 grit sandpaper and machine oil and work my way up to 1500 grit. This takes out the mirror finish, but I'm not particularily fond of mirror finish on pretty metal things. OK... except for chrome on old cars.

[Roger Soucy]

I own several swords that I keep in their scabbards. I also own steel that I keep bare. My observations are this:
Steel is just as likely to rust in the open air (especially in humid locations) as it is in the scabbard.

What really matters is not using fresh or untreated leather for the scabbard, keeping a coating of something on the blade, and storing the weapon in a relatively dry area.

From what I understand the reason scabbards are supposed to rust a weapon, other than trapping moisture, is that leather is supposed to contain moisture of its own that can rust a weapon. However, treated leather, as well as treated wood, can be used without fear of rusting the sword it contains.

As always mileage will vary, but I always keep my swords in their scabbards (leather, dyed vegitable tan, thin coating of oil from sliding coated swords in) and the blades do not rust so long as I recoat them every 6 months or so (or after any use).

Recently a member of my study group turned me on to Nevr-Dull.. comes in a can, isn't messy, and protects as well as removes light oxidation/rust.

[robrobertson]

Another option, especially if your sword is going to be out in the public, such as at demo's or whatever, is to give your blade a light coat of car wax. Helps to protect against fingerprints!

Rob

[Casper Bradak]

The problem with keeping swords in scabbards, especially leather ones, or firearms in leather holsters, as long as they're not unduly damp, is a long term issue and probably won't effect them much. Basically if they are left in contact with anything organic for a long period of time, it'll corrode the metal.

[Jaron Bernstein]

Well, got my Sempach today. Flourished a lot, and went about pruning the shrubberies in the backyard with it. I did the mineral thing which got the blade clean and the CLP seems to be keeping it rust free.

Next question. In class today we did some very slow steel on steel techniques (kron and hangen) and I found to my horror small nicks in my blade after what I thought was good edge to flat alignment. How do I repair these?

Are these nicks a common occurance when you use steels? I did find that there was no "waster bounce".

[JeffGentry]

Hey All

In class today we did some very slow steel on steel techniques (kron and hangen) and I found to my horror small nicks in my blade after what I thought was good edge to flat alignment. How do I repair these?

Well for our first encounter steel on steel, it was educational when you do it right you can realy tell by the feel and sound of the hit, was very cool, i wonder if it was because we were going slow and trying to be careful.


Is just a thought.

Jeff

[Randall Pleasant]

Jaron

You're using a Sempach to practice techniques with another person? <img src="/forum/images/icons/shocked.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forum/images/icons/confused.gif" alt="" /> Ernie Perez of the DFW Study Group also has a Sempach and it has very sharp edges and a very, very sharp point. That sword is a killer! As much as I trust Ernie Perez there is no way I would consider practicing against that sword. I think you might be one mistake away from a nightmare. Friend, I would highly suggest that you not use your Sempach anywhere close to another human. Buy yourself a blunt for practicing with a training partner.

<u>Never forget that these swords and these martial arts really work - they will kill.</u>

[Aaron Pynenberg]

geeez, I had the same reaction, you guys are flirting with death and/or dismemberment. A blunt will serve you well, for steel on steel. I'll give you this though that's 10 extra points for realism, it does not get much more authentic. Besides that's like a $800.00 sword, why put it through that kind of workout, you still have to expect some nicks even if the technique is correct---I have been test cutting alot with my Baron, but no steel vs. steel, yikes, Aaron

[JeanryChandler]

watch the deer cutting video!

JR

[GaryGrzybek]

I must agree with what others are saying. Slow or not, I would never consider using sharp steel for partner drills. There's just too much risk involved. I have an unsharpened Del Tin 2143 that I won't even use for free play. I feel the tip area is far too dangerous and I'd rather use a wider blade with a spatulated point.

Blades with a heavy profile taper are a little bit tricky when it comes to edge alignment.You will find it takes more practice to get the feel of where you are through the cut. This is probably why your getting more edge to edge hits than desired. Albion may be able to get those nicks out if their not too deep. I don't like to mess around with those traditional edge bevels myself for fear of causing more damage.

Get yourself a blunt my friend <img src="/forum/images/icons/smirk.gif" alt="" />

[Jaron Bernstein]

Point taken. No more partner drills with the Sempach. I can get a blunt instead. <img src="/forum/images/icons/tongue.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forum/images/icons/ooo.gif" alt="" />

The nicks aren't very bad, I was just surprised they occurred at all given that we were taking such care with edge to flat alignment (it really was VERY slow).

Thanks for the safety advisory.

[Lance Chan]

Well, to add a note, I have done sharp to blunt experiement where the blunt strikes me full force while I use a sharp to parry/defect. Even it's very calculated with edge to flat, the contact still ding the blade's edge a bit. On the contrary, when I test striking a sword's flat with my sharp's edge, my edge became blunt.

Took me a long long time to take them out of my swords afterweards

So, void, dun parry if you can.