Postby David Kite » Thu Nov 21, 2002 12:59 pm
disclaimer: this is my first steel sword, so just because I'm impressed, take it with a grain of salt!
length: overall; 46 3/4" blade; 36 1/4" grip (not including pommel); 7"
crossguard length: 10 1/4"
blade width: at cross; 1 3/4" before tip; 7/8" tapers gently
distal taper: yes, but in the absence of calipers, I've no idea how much. tapers gently. Also has a 1 1/2" "ricasso"
weight: overall: 3 3/4 lbs. pommel: 1 lb. (is that normal?)
COB: roughly 4" from guard
COP: don't know
impression: Being as it is my first sword, I like the feel of it. It seems to maneuver quickly, especially considering the slightly excessive weight but, as the weight and feel is SO much different than my wasters, I also haven't yet developed the proper strength or technique to properly evaluate its handling. When swung forcibly, the sword doesn't try to haul me along behind it. I also recommend wearing gloves when handling it, because the design of the cross makes it rub against my knuckles, which becomes very uncomfortabe very quickly.
Lutel's swords are normally not sharpened, but I requested mine to be sharp. While sharper than Lutel swords may normally be, I don't think mine is as sharp as it should be. Unless my technique is really just that awful, it couldn't even cut a water-filled coke bottle. But that problem is pretty easy to fix.
However, the pommel is of course the screw-on type, and after a couple of attempts to hew a cardboard corner (from home-appliance packaging), the handguard loosened up, caused by the loosening pommel. Another problem easily fixed, but still somewhat annoying. I don't believe there is a danger of the pommel falling off and the blade flying away, because it seems to take an excessive number of twists to remove the pommel.
Slapping the blade or the pommel does seem to cause a fairly intense wobbling, but when the point is pressed against something, it does not flex very far (maybe four inches away from "true"), and it returns to true immediately. It does reverberate for a considerable time (longer than I would have thought), and when tapped gently, rings like a tuning fork.
The handle grip and scabbard seem well-made with good quality leather, and the scabbard has metal fittings at the mouth and tip. The finish of the blade and furniture is very smooth with a visible grain (I suppose what is called "satin").
When the weather allows me to meet up with my group again, and I can see how sharp a sword should be, I'll sharpen my sword up and do some test cutting, hopefully before hell (or at least Indiana) freezes over. I'll edit this post to reflect those results. Since the tang has a screw-threaded rod welded to it, I hope the tang is strong enough to withstand test cutting. Cross your fingers.
Overall, I am very pleased with the sword, and have no real complaints. While it may or may not compare to more expensive blades, I feel it is definitely a good starter sword and "learner piece."
Also, sorry if any of the above is completely irrelevant.
David Kite
