Where to obtain a buckler?

[Chris Crittenden]

Hi all,

I have really been wanting to get into sword and buckler and I've been looking around for a buckler. I have found only two or three places online to purchase one and I am a bit stuck. I don't think I want one with leather straps for handles. I wouldn't mind a wooden one, but I'd prefer steel. I've seen some for sale at www.mandrakearmory.com, but I don't know if theirs are good. Also, they have three different models, two 14" ones and one 18" one. I want the 14" one, but one is 20 gauge and weighs 2 pounds while the other is 14 gauge and weighs 4 pounds. Which one is the more historical weight? Does anyone have experience with Mandrake Armory, or could they recommend another maker/supplier of quality bucklers? Eventually I want to make some out of wood and pad them so my little group here can spar, but right now I just need one so I can practice the techniques on my own.

Regards,

Chris Crittenden

[David_Knight]

Will your buckler be strictly for ARMA practice, or do you plan on using it for reenacting, et al.?

If the latter is the case, I can't help you.

Otherwise, it is very simple and inexpensive to make your own if you already have a few tools (router, jigsaw/bandsaw/tablesaw, drill, belt-sander/sanding block). I've invested less than $5 in supplies for a pair of bucklers (a $.99 stainless metal bowl from Walmart makes an excellent boss), and both have held up very well during training.

[Matthew_Anderson]

I've got one from Mercanery's Tailor that I like pretty well:

http://albion-swords.com/armor/mercenary/buckler.htm

I've also got a wooden one with a leather edge I use with wooden wasters. Don't use a steel buckler with wasters, it'll really destroy the edges of the wasters, but maybe I'm the only one dumb enough to have done this <img src="/forum/images/icons/crazy.gif" alt="" />

[Brian Hunt]

Hi Chris,

I make a hard ABS plastic buckler that is currently being used by many in the Provo group, and the Las Vegas group. If you are interested in details send me a private message.

Brian Hunt

GFS.

[Chris Crittenden]

Thanks everyone for the advice. I would possibly use it for reenactment, but even if it were of wood, it could still be used for that. I don't have my own tools, but I have a friend that does, so that would not be a problem.

I already have the wood, but I have looked everywhere for the metal bowl, which was my first thought, but no one has them currently, not Wal-Mart or anywhere else around me. I will keep looking, though. I also thought about using an end cap for a large PVC pipe as an umbo. Has anyone had luck with those?. As I said, I have the wood, enough for 4 bucklers in fact, so I could make one or two for ARMA and one for any reenactment that I would do, if only I could get the bowls. So far, the only bowl I found was a bird food bowl, and it didn't seem to be thick enough, or at least, not as thick as the metal mixing bowls that I've seen in Wal-Mart, etc.

I thought about making the handle from an aluminum bar riveted/bolted on and then taking a shaped piece of wood and attaching that to the flat aluminum bar and wrapping the whole thing in leather for grip and shock absorbsion. Would a simpler wooden handle work better or does anyone think my idea is a good one?

Thanks again everyone

Regards,

Chris Crittenden

[Brian Hunt]

You can get a 1 quart stainless steel mixing bowl here for a dollar twenty one plus shipping and handling.

http://www.instawares.com/Stainless-Steel-Mixing-Bowl-1-Quart.SBL-2D.0.7.htm

or if you look here, there is a greater variety.

http://www.instawares.com/Economy-Weight-SS.4-422-4.0.0.2.htm

The idea for a handle is a good one, and similar type handles have been used in the past.

hope this helps.

Brian Hunt
GFS

[GaryGrzybek]

I have the English Buckler from Arms &amp; Armor and it's very nice. It's about 11" wide, made of 16 gauge steel and weighs about 2.5 pounds. I've also seen Mercenary Taylor's bucklers and their very nice too.

[robrobertson]

I once saw one made from an old disc from a disc harrow. I don't know what the weight of it was, but I was impressed with it. That was several years ago at a Ren. Faire.

Be advised, using a disc 12 inches in diameter is much more reasonable than 2 ft.

I know that this sounds silly to mention, but they ARE going to be found in different sizes and while they're all made from "good steel", the larger ones are basically only fit for fire pits. Unless you have arms like a cave troll! <img src="/forum/images/icons/grin.gif" alt="" />

I hope that this helps !

Rob

[Chris Crittenden]

Thanks again everyone. See, that's what I like so much about ARMA, the comraderie. I will definitely be checking out all the websites. I will probably make my own wooden one, but also get an al steel one.

Regards,

Chris Crittenden

[Allen Johnson]

I own the Albion one as well and like it alot. Many people dislike it because the grip is round and will turn in your hand if the edges are struck. However, within a fight I really havent had much of a problem with this as the edge of the buckler is mostly in line (or close to) the opponent. That and it's used more as a displacement tool rather that take a tip point on.

[Scott Anderson]

Isn't letting it turn slightly when used part of how they're supposed to be used?


SPA

[Allen Johnson]

Not really - unless I'm not being clear. I guess it also depends on how thick the grip is- the Albion one is relativley skinny. Suppose you are holding your buckler straight out in front of you with the handle on the back oriented so it is straight up and down- (bottom left image) http://www.thearma.org/Manuals/NewManuals/Marozzo/p059.jpg

If someone were to deliver a strong thrust to the outer edge closer to "us", and the defender were not to traverse or move the buckler, its possible (with a round, skinny handle) that the buckler could be 'spun' inward, allowing the thrust to continue into the defenders chest.
However, with all that, I've dont recall this happening to me as the body and buckler arent static and usually move to put aside the thrust as opposed to stop it dead on. If you do that then you really havent removed yourself from danger as the attacker could easily then disengage the buckler and thrust to another target. With a displacement and a traversing step, the opponents point is idealy already behind you and yours is in his neck, chest, groin or what ever- like here: http://www.thearma.org/Manuals/NewManuals/CapoFerro/10001131.jpg
( yeah they are using targets and not bucklers, but it's still a great illustration of the principal)