New Waster

[John_Clements]

Kyle Cook fo Victoria Texas is making these simply splended new slaughter-sword style extra-long handled warsword wasters. They are really sweet and made from osage orange, an espensive native Texas hardwood known for its strength and springiness. I was very impressed with the feel and the craftsmanship!

[Shane Smith]

That looks pretty nice,but it's a very basic design.I am wondering if all of us at ARMA VAB are the only ones that just make their own wasters? Mine are perfectly serviceable(and cheap! <img src="/forum/images/icons/smile.gif" alt="" /> ) though not the prettiest while Matt makes VERY nice-looking and even nicer-handling wasters.Theres nothing like training with a tool you made with your own hands. <img src="/forum/images/icons/wink.gif" alt="" />

[Joachim Nilsson]

Wow! <img src="/forum/images/icons/shocked.gif" alt="" /> Really nice. Is it possible to put in an overseas order? <img src="/forum/images/icons/wink.gif" alt="" />

[John_Clements]

Shane wrote: "That looks pretty nice,but it's a very basic design"

I don't understand, basic deisgn? What more would you want, what is there to add? This piece is very sweet, its smooth as glass and perfectly balanced.

JC

[Shane Smith]

Yes John, A "basic design" in that it would be simple for someone to make for themselves with simple hand tools in the context of my entire earlier post.I was not implying that simplicity of design was any sort of detriment to functionality. A good performer is a good performer regardless of the complexity of construction.Often-times basic tends to be best. <img src="/forum/images/icons/wink.gif" alt="" />

[Guest]

What a good idea, archery wood! If you look at the grain pattern on the guard, it's perfect. Straight vertical or horizontal grain on the guard would snap it like a twig with one good blow, with or without dowels. The hardwood dowels are what I do also, but I also have 2 more, spread out on the guard, it has never budged. If he is using poly adhesives, it's gonna last forever. OK, I have to run to Victoria in about a week or two, where can I get one?

[George Turner]

Arghh!!! Wood that good needs to be in a bow! At primitive archery gatherings old men sit around talking about the clearest pieces of osage they ever saw. Their memories are long... It should make a quite exeptional waster. I would think yew would also perform very well. It's known for being able to take a severe bruising and still perform under extreme stress. Unfortunately, it's hard to find clear, straight grained sections of it. I imagine the Spanish used to have a few tricks for growing it back in the old days. Normally it's got a pretty nasty, twisty, grain. It's also toxic as can be, which is why they started growing it for Taxol, a powerful cancer drug.

[kyle cook]

I used a poly adhesive to put on the guard. The guard is made form one peice of wood, not two glued togather on my other wasters. The wasters weight completed is 2 lbs and 1 oz. In doing cutting excerises, it's very sweet to use. <img src="/forum/images/icons/grin.gif" alt="" />

[Guest]

HI Kyle...any for sale? In about a week or so, I need to make my way to Victoria anyway to pick up a race chassis and body...so if you have one laying around with a price tag, let me know! The size of the thing appears to match one of my DelTins, so hopefully....

[John_Clements]

Ahh, yes, yes, I concurr entirely. Basic is best for a waster.

[Jake_Norwood]

I am wondering if all of us at ARMA VAB are the only ones that just make their own wasters?

There's a few guys out at ARMA Provo that have made their own. They're pretty nice, although I wonder how long a few of them are going to last. I'd agree that making your own is the way to go if one has the rescources. What do you all use to build yours? Is there a "reciepie" on the web somewhere? I'm sure it's pretty straight forward, but something for those of us that haven't worked wood since boyscouts would be nice.

[Jared L. Cass]

Hi Jake, maybe this will help you out.

I use: a hand planer (this is the most importent tool in my waster construction), a rasp, sand-paper, a drill with drill-bit (of course!), a hand-saw, and maybe a hack-saw if you will be cutting threaded rod (described below). Also, epoxy or wood glue will be needed. Total construction time (not including a trip to the local lumber yard and time for epoxy to set): about three hours.

Here are the construction steps I use: #1- Cut material to length and basic shape using hand-saw, or a table saw if you've got one. You might want to make a tag-board patern. Leave a little extra "waste" material to be taken off in final finish sanding. #2- Mark out where hilt and cross will be. #3- begin tapering and rounding all sharp edges with hand planer, distle taper if you want. Do not round edges where cross will go. #4- cut your cross pieces to length and mark where the dowels will be. #5- drill dowel holes in cross material. #6- Mark holes to main waster material using the pre drilled cross material as a transfer guide. #7- drill dowel holes in main waster body. #8- Attach cross, to check for fit. Dissassemble. #9:- rasp out grip shape. #10- make pommel using all tools listed above (I add a seperate pommel rather than rasp one out of the main waster body). #11- sink your drill dit as far as it will go into the center of the end of the grip and drill out pommel to align accordingly. #12- Cut a dowel or threaded rod (if using threaded rod, you'll have to use the hack-saw here) to fit the length of the holes drilled into the grip and pommel. Check for fit and dissassemble. #13- Sand everything to a nice finish. #14- epoxy (or wood glue if you prefer) and attach: dowel's, cross, and pommel. Let harden. ***While epoxy or wood glue are still malleable make sure all parts are where you want them and are alligned correctly***. #14- after epoxy or wood glue has hardened, sand again. Clean up any drippage from the epoxy or wood glue, and finish (ie, varnish, oil, ect) as you like. Finished waster!

As far as balance goes, the threaded rod helps in this aspect. I've also epoxyed steel washers to the pommel. Basicly, use your imagination and see if you can accieve the balance you want. Have fun! <img src="/forum/images/icons/grin.gif" alt="" />

Jared L. Cass, Wisconsin

[Jared L. Cass]

I should add the most important information: material selection! Matererial should be of the straightest grain possible, no knots, no warp, and no wide grain patterns (the narrower the better). You'll probably have to root throught a lot of junk before you find a good piece. The guy's at the lumber yard can help you find a good piece if you don't really have an idea of what a good piece looks like. As far as avaliability of wood goes, oak is probably the easiest to find, and makes a real nice waster. Ash, hickory, and other good waster woods (that osage is beautiful!) will be harder to find, unless you know a local cabinet maker who can get it for you. A cabinet maker will be a better judge of wood quality than even the lumber yard guys. You should also strive for a narrow thickness without sacrificing strength or weight. Most of my wasters are between 1/2 and 3/4 in. thick. Finished weight: 2-3 lbs.

Jared L. Cass, Wisconsin