One thing you can do with a hocky helmet is modify it. Put a heavy duty woven steel mesh screen over it and tie it down to the original cage of the helmet or do the same thing using a 18 or 16 gage perforated steel plate. These will both allow you to have a fairly good amount of vision (much like a fencing mask) and will plug up those open areas so you won't take a waster to the face. Look at
http://www.mcmaster.com/ on page 365 of their catalog for perferated plate (I wouldn't use anything thinner than 18 gage and would highly reccomend 16 gage the cost difference isn't that much. I would also use very small holes 1/8 inch or smaller with a open area no greater than 33%-40%). I prefer an open/staggered pattern when working with steel perf. If you use stainless steel instead of plain steel, you won't have to worry about rust (athough a coat of black paint can solve this problem) and since stainless is stronger you could go with 18 gage. You can work this material with a sinking/dishing stump and a hammer to shape it for your mask. Here is a link to a pdf file for making masks in the SCA, there are some interesting ideas in it
http://www.companyofthebronzering.org/library/technology/rapierhelmet.pdf I don't have a good url for a decent wire mesh, but look for one that has wires that are no smaller than those on a fencing mask and you may go as high as 18 gage for the wire diameter. Once again keep your holes small 1/8" or smaller. The smaller the diameter of the wire in your mesh, the more see through it will be, but as wire thickness descends so does the strength of your mesh.
One other thing I would probably add to a hocky mask is some form of throat protection, either by shaping 16 gage steel or a 1/8" plastic (ABS, HDPE, Kydex) and attaching it with leather or nylon straps. But I like to build and modify things.
hope this info is helpful.
Brian Hunt
GFS