A poorman's longsword?

[CalebChow]

Ugh. I've saved up the money, but I'm certain my parents would like, disown me if I spent 400 dollars on a sword.

Anyone know what kind of wood I should use if I wanted to make a waster of my own?

[David Kite]

Ugh. I've saved up the money, but I'm certain my parents would like, disown me if I spent 400 dollars on a sword.

Anyone know what kind of wood I should use if I wanted to make a waster of my own?

Hickory. Avoid the pecan hickories, as they will disintegrate very quickly (mine were destroyed within one practice session). I understand the variety known as shagbark hickory (or Appalachian hickory) is supposed to be substantially better suited to martial arts training weapons, though my shagbark hickory waster is beginning to splinter after only one session (though it should last several more sessions as long as I continually sand it).

In my experience, pecan hickory is sort of a reddish-brown color, whereas shagbark is white or white-ish.

David Kite
GFS, ARMA in IN

[CalebChow]

awesome! thanks for the quick response.

It just so happens that my roommate's dad owns a business that deals with making just about anything non-metal.

Is there a specific type of plastic I would use for plastic wasters then? I don't know how rating plastic works, so any information would help.

[David Kite]

awesome! thanks for the quick response.

It just so happens that my roommate's dad owns a business that deals with making just about anything non-metal.

Is there a specific type of plastic I would use for plastic wasters then? I don't know how rating plastic works, so any information would help.

Honestly I can't tell you, because I have no idea about plastic. Others will have to chime in on that one.

David Kite
GFS, ARMA in IN

[Jeremiah Backhaus]

Is there a specific type of plastic I would use for plastic wasters then? I don't know how rating plastic works, so any information would help.

This is a very common and difficult question. The guys who do make plastic wasters have spent quite a bit of time finding the right kinds of plastic to make them. If your roommates father works at a company that has access to plastics, I would suggest talking to him about the plastics that he has and what you want it to do. Basically, because it could be detrimental to the makers who are in production now, I sincerely doubt you will get anyone posting the kind of plastic they are using. But if you do the leg-work yourself, you should be able to find something that works for you.

-Jeremiah (GFS)

[Jeffrey Hull]

Some of my ARMA fellows absolutely dislike aluminum blunts. Perhaps they may state why at this forum.

[Mike Cartier]

i don't like Aluminum swords myself, they are too light, get saw toothed edges and are too floppy. For my money you are better off with a cheap blunt or a good waster like those from stirling arms

i just got the Davenriche model and its fantastic.

[CalebChow]

i don't like Aluminum swords myself, they are too light, get saw toothed edges and are too floppy. For my money you are better off with a cheap blunt or a good waster like those from stirling arms

i just got the Davenriche model and its fantastic.

Hm, well, I don't really want to spend 150 dollars on an aluminum sword that lasts about a week.

About cheap blunts--you have any recommendations? At the start of this thread i was leaning toward getting a cheap blunt, but I've had a lot of different opinions about it.

I don't suppose ARMA would sell any used/damaged weapons...

[Jonathan Waller]

There is nothing wrong with Aluminium as long, as with most kit, you have good stuff.
The key is to have the right kind of aluminium with the right kind of hilt, it then wieghs and balances right. Then they don't saw or chipped edges. Obviously don't use them against other materials.
We have some that are still good after best part of 20 years.

However its all about personal taste and what others in your training group use, no point in having the perfect if no one else does and they don't want to change!

Best
Jonathan

[Jeremiah.Phipps]

Is there a specific type of plastic I would use for plastic wasters then? I don't know how rating plastic works, so any information would help.

I don't know what plastics others are using, but a simple email to a local plastics company reulted in a recommendation to use Copolyester Polypropylene. I bought a piece to fashion a waster from but have yet to make it as I am working on the 'process' with wood first (which is less expensive).

- Jeremiah

[Jeffrey Hull]

Sorry, but the answer seems to be that you must spend some considerable money for a steel blunt training sword of high quality. That would be the most accurate facsimile of a sword other than an actual sharp replica sword of course (which you would not want for sparring); and every other training weapon other than a steel blunt is simply a lesser facsimile by varying degrees.

If you would purchase such a blunt from a maker who is Euro-American, or at least of a friendly nation, then consider the following, all of whom have some such weaponry to be found amid their websites:

Arms & Armor (American)
http://armor.com/sword187.html
http://armor.com/sword207.html

Albion Swords (Swedish-American)
http://www.albion-swords.com/swords/alb ... aestro.htm

Lutel (Czech)
http://www.lutel.cz/

Windlass / MRL (Indian)
http://www.museumreplicas.com/museumrep ... spx?ID=709

Imperial Weapons (Filipino)
http://www.imperialweapons.com/swords/gen2-stage.html

Note: The more expensive of those makers also happen to make the more accurate weaponry, as far as weight & dimension, whether blunt or sharp, training or replica, something important.

Good luck in your training

[CalebChow]

Imperial Weapons (Filipino)
http://www.imperialweapons.com/swords/gen2-stage.html

Note: The more expensive of those makers also happen to make the more accurate weaponry, as far as weight & dimension, whether blunt or sharp, training or replica, something important.

Ooo, I'm liking the look of this one's German 2handed practice sword. Thanks a ton!
Would you or anyone else here have any experience with imperialweapons' stuff?

[Jeffrey Hull]

Ooo, I'm liking the look of this one's German 2handed practice sword. Thanks a ton!
Would you or anyone else here have any experience with imperialweapons' stuff?

I have not used the IW items, but every review of weapons by that maker that I read tends to confirm their wares are really tough. That said, I would point out however that dimensions (perhaps grip too bulky) and weight (too heavy) of those are not optimal, but probably still usable, so you ought to keep that in mind. Hopefully you shall find something suitable to further your training.

[Craig Peters]

Caleb,

I think nearly everyone here will tell you that Albion's Maestro line is the way to go if you want a good sparring sword. Albion swords are first rate, their customer service is outstanding, and they'll last a lifetime. While $444 is a lot for someone without money, (believe me, I know), you'll probably end up regretting that you spent money on a lesser quality training sword when you get a chance to handle an Albion in the future.

I'd start with a waster from New Stirling Arms if I were you.

[Ken Dietiker]

There is nothing wrong with Aluminium as long, as with most kit, you have good stuff.
The key is to have the right kind of aluminium with the right kind of hilt, it then wieghs and balances right. Then they don't saw or chipped edges. Obviously don't use them against other materials.
We have some that are still good after best part of 20 years.

However its all about personal taste and what others in your training group use, no point in having the perfect if no one else does and they don't want to change!

Best
Jonathan

I find this statement hard to believe. I'm not sure if I understand how the weight and balance of a sword makes the softer metal of aluminum become less prone to saw edging and chipping. In my experience, aluminum swords are great if you are gentle and do not fight with any intent, but put to the test, the edges are just too soft and don't hold up to any realistic sparring. All I can think of is that, if you still have swords in good condition after 20 years, they must have seen some pretty slow and gentle use.

Ken