How to Modify Cold Steel training sword?

[Amanda MacKenzie]

I am completely new to this art. I bought Guy Windsor's book, and intend to train myself as much as I can. For my trainer, I got the cold steel polypropelene sword. Even though I am a novice, I can tell that the balance sucks. I'd like to change that.

Is it possible to fix the problem by deepening the fuller?

Here's one guy that fixed the issue like this:
http://www.myarmoury.com/talk/viewtopic ... c&start=20

I'm only a 17 year old girl. I'm not sure if I can undertake a project like that.
What should I do? I don't want to buy a different waster. I have a limited budget.

[Tom Reynolds]

Amanda MacKenzie wrote:

I am completely new to this art. I bought Guy Windsor's book, and intend to train myself as much as I can. For my trainer, I got the cold steel polypropelene sword. Even though I am a novice, I can tell that the balance sucks. I'd like to change that.

Is it possible to fix the problem by deepening the fuller?

Here's one guy that fixed the issue like this:
http://www.myarmoury.com/talk/viewtopic ... c&start=20

I'm only a 17 year old girl. I'm not sure if I can undertake a project like that.
What should I do? I don't want to buy a different waster. I have a limited budget.



Tom Reynolds wrote:

Welcome Amanda!

An alternative way to fix the balance on a waster, without having to do all the surgery described in your link, is simply to tape one or more weights to whatever part of the waster is appropriate. Large steel washers work really well as weights, for example. They are the right size and shape, and allow you to adjust the added weight precisely.

That's just one way, though. Anybody else who has had more experience with this particular brand of waster should feel free to offer their recommendations.

Please don't ever say that you are "only a 17 year old girl." There is no such thing in this art. For one thing, there are plenty of 51 year old men in this world who would not be able to carry out the waster surgery described in your link. Like me, for example.

You may be 17 years old, but so what? You're just getting a fantastic head start! I wish I had started this art when I was your age, instead of waiting until I was much (much much) older.

For another thing, I am always reminded of the wonderful battle scene at the end of "King Arthur," where three shrieking blue painted Pictish women distracted an absolutely gigantic Saxon from in front while three more climbed up his back and slit his throat!

In other words, size or gender are not necessarily an issue - IF you know what to do. Knowing what to do is one reason why we study
this art!


Good luck with your waster modifications...

[Jason Taylor]

I am completely new to this art. I bought Guy Windsor's book, and intend to train myself as much as I can. For my trainer, I got the cold steel polypropelene sword. Even though I am a novice, I can tell that the balance sucks. I'd like to change that.

Is it possible to fix the problem by deepening the fuller?

Here's one guy that fixed the issue like this:
http://www.myarmoury.com/talk/viewtopic ... c&start=20

I'm only a 17 year old girl. I'm not sure if I can undertake a project like that.
What should I do? I don't want to buy a different waster. I have a limited budget.

One of our guys fixed his problem by grinding down the pommel until it was relatively flat on the end, then sinking a six-inch hole into the handle, starting at the center of the pommel. This is a bit tricky, but doable; you just have to be careful not to tilt the drill bit. A drill press would be useful.

Then he put a stack of washers about the size of the handle on the end and put a long bolt into the hole to hold them in place. They both lengthen the handle and fix the balance, both good things. The washers slip around a bit and aren't super comfortable on the hand, so I'd recommend getting them nice and tight and then filling the spaces with epoxy to hold everything in place, then capping the entire unit with some kind of rubber, maybe a big furniture cap or something similar. Or just wrap it with leather.

Hope this helps, and glad to see you starting the art so young. It's also helpful for you to find a training group fairly early on. I notice you don't have a location listed, so I won't ask, but you can probably find a local group in your area to train with. If you happen to be in So Cal, our group trains fairly regularly in the Irvine/Fullerton/Costa Mesa areas, so feel free to drop me a line for our next official training day. Of course, in the case of the vast probability that you are not in So Cal, there's a lot of other groups around the country these days, both ARMA and not, that you can hook up with for at least an occasional practice.

Good luck in your studies.

Jason

[Dylan Asbury]

Hey there, Amanda! Congratulations on your finding and beginning your study in the chivalric arts! My father and I have had to work in a lot of do-it-yourself weapons and a lot of them work out pretty well. If you wouldn't mind posting some measurements (specifically of the weapon's length, width and balance point) I could pick dad's brain and we might try to figure out a solution since we've been looking at doing something similar for some months now. I should go look at Windsor's book to see what exactly you're trying to get the sword to do, since balance for one type of blade wouldn't work for another. I know that my rapier had some serious balancing issues and I fixed it by wrapping tape around the handle and pommel (electrical tape, preferably) and so now it's weighted a little better and fits the hand more reliably. It being a plastic blade you could use an electric tool like a dremel to chew off some of the blade if you find it too long.

Also, as a curiosity, where about do you live? I had to start out just like you, only a book and a jury-rigged weapon to train with...that was five years ago at the age of fourteen. If you live close to me or someone on the forum, we could perhaps relieve you of "Quixote syndrome" as we call it here. You'll definitely learn faster if you have other people to learn with, I know firsthand.

[Alexander Barnett]

I have the same blade.

I ordered it on an impulse and didn't do any research on it until I already had it.

So far the options that have been listed are:

1. Trimming material off of the blade with a knife or a file.
2. Cutting into the grip and extending the handle length with metal washers or a piece of wood.
3. attaching a stack of washers to the end of the pommel.

Another option I've read about is drilling into the pommel and filling it with some lead weights. Fishing weights I'd imagine would be a good source of some cheap lead as are lead shot. Tungsten powder, about 1.3-1.5 times heavier then lead and used on golf clubs, would be another yet more expensive option.


Whatever sort of work you decide to do on your sword be careful to take things slow and deliberately. It's easy to get frustrated by this sort of work.

Although nice to have a well balanced sword, don't fret about it too much if it's beyond your current capacity to fix it, you're learning swordplay to enjoy it.

And yeah, : ) welcome to this art. It can be very rewarding.

[Jonathan_Kaplan]

I've been thinking of drilling a thick hole in the pommel, putting some lead weight in it, and epoxying it shut...

[Amanda MacKenzie]

Thank-you all so much for your advice and encouragement! I really appreciate it. I think I'll try drilling in the pommel and filling it with weights.

I live in the area of Branson, MO, and I can't find anyone to train with! I'm certain there are people out there, but they haven't made themselves available online.
Where do you think I should advertise the fact that I need a sword study partner?

[Alexander Barnett]

You can try on forums such as these.

[Sal Bertucci]

I have had some small success with craigslist

[Jason Taylor]

As I think about it, since it's semi-on-topic (though i know o already have a waster, Amanda), Dave Rawlings has some fairly decent (from what I hear) nylon wasters on pre-order for something like $57 US. Check out this link:

http://www.theknightshop.co.uk/catalog/ ... 7832cc4c05

They're designed to flax only on the final third. Does anybody have one of these who can speak to their overall quality and appropriateness for good HEMA practice?

Jason