Need help on how to make a waster.

[Mike Zettle]

Forgive me if I missed it some were on the ARMA pages but I can not find any articles on how to make a waster. I have even googled it and haven't gotten any ware. I plan on purchasing Hickory wood but I need dimensions for a sword, outline, weight, how to attach the guard, construction, etc.

I would like my wasters to be as close to a real sword as possible. I would just make a copy of my sword..... but I have to purchase it yet........I have many swords, just not any that fit what I need for ARMA. I am planing on applying to ARMA as a study group with a few vary interested friends and want to get started with literature (that is in the mail and on ARMA) and practice swords. As a group I am hoping we can construct our own wasters from the wood I purchase. I know there are places to purchase premade wasters but its just not how I like to go about things, same reason there is a amateur blacksmith shop in my back yard.

On the other hand I did purchase the Cold Steel Medieval Training Sword and now wonder if I should have purchased the Hand and a half sword. I am also concerned about using plastic against wood? bad idea? Perhaps outline it and make wood copies?

I could also use advice on what kind of sword I should copy with my wasters as we get started training. I am assuming at first it would be best for us to all use the same type of sword, although they may be of different lengths for different heights of people.

Sorry to ask so much, all this reading is getting to me and I need get out of my chair with something in my hands so we can have at it!

[Stacy Clifford]

Start by doing a search of this forum, there have been quite a few discussions about making wasters on here in the past, some in more detail than others. DIY types aren't unusual around here.

[John Farthing]

In addition to the excellent advice already given by Stacy, you might also seek out local wood crafters and/or wood working clubs in your area. Many times they are enthusiastic and eager to share advise and provide a few pointers. Also, you may find a few who would otherwise have no idea about ARMA and what we do. Therefore, you might not only find the help you're looking for but, pick up some more members for your study group as well!

Best of luck!

[Mike Zettle]

Start by doing a search of this forum, there have been quite a few discussions about making wasters on here in the past, some in more detail than others. DIY types aren't unusual around here.

I spent probably about 2+ hours (maybe not enough?) searching the forums, I dont know if I am using the search engine wrong or what but no mater what I put in hundreds of subjects come up with nothing to do with it. I have tried

How to make a waster
water construction
waster wood practice sword hickory
waster AND make (Perhaps I need to use the "AND" command more)

and many other combination's. I cant seem to search the titles only. Any help as to what I'm doing wrong would be great! or links to posts.

[Stacy Clifford]

A search for "making waster" seems to turn up a little bit more focused results (just a little bit). Here are a few threads you might find useful:

http://www.thearma.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=23844

http://www.thearma.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7492

http://www.thearma.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=22268

http://www.thearma.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=22249

They're listed newest to oldest, but the two at the bottom have more info related directly to woodworking.

[Mike Zettle]

ThanX for the help! I have allot of info now but one thing I need before ordering wood. Can people please post how thick at the thickest spot the wood is on there wasters blade? Right now I am going to order 3/4" thick Hickory if I dont hear reasons for otherwise.

[Jeremiah.Phipps]

I bought a piece of maple (1x6x6 foot) with a grain as straight as possible from my local lumber yard. Hickory was too hard to find and maple is an excellent alternative. The actual measurements of the board are 3/4 inch by 5 1/2 inches. I drew out a pattern on the wood that allowed me to cut out 3 blanks (max width 2 inches at the ricasso and pommel). See the attached image for blank orientation. I also cut out six pieces from the remaining stock 1/2 inch wide and 11 inches long for the cross guards. I would notch and sandwich two of those pieces for each blade giving the final dimensions of the cross guard at 3/4 inch tall (from ricasso to grip), 1 inch thick (from blade face to blade face), and 11 inches wide.

The sword lengths are 48 inches overall. I believe I began the profile taper of the blades at 12 inches from the bottom with a 1 inch ricasso, leaving 10.25 inches for grip and pommel. I may be off on that and can measure it when I get home.

Unfortunately, I added a distal taper to the blades as well as the profile taper. This made the blades far too light for realistic training. I plan to make another batch with only the profile taper and will post pictures if interested.

Jeremiah

[Greg Coffman]

I'm planning on making a waster myself pretty soon. Please post pics of your projects. I'm not familiar with maple. Is it as heavy as hickory?

[Jeremiah.Phipps]

Maple isn't as hard, dense or heavy as hickory, but the hard maples are close. Maple is typically easier to find in the US than Hickory, but be sure to get "hard" maple (Black or Sugar Maple, sometimes called White Maple at a lumberyard). Avoid the "soft" Maples (Red and Silver Maple and Box Elder) and the "medium" Big Leaf (or Pacific Coast) Maple.

Some folks are temped to use Oak as it has similar weight to Hickory; however, you will probably come across some users of Oak that claim that it starts to splinter where it is damaged. This is due to the structure of the wood grains. Probably not your best choice.

Jeremiah

[Greg Coffman]

I've already got hickory for my wasters. I was just wondering if the comparative weight of the maple made it too light after you tapered the blade in both the profile and distal.

I doubt I'll put a distal taper on mine. But the NSA longsword blade has a unique and complicated taper that makes it considerably lighter towards the point. It's not a true distal taper; it's diamond shape and the ridge is the same thickness to the point. But the diamond shape combined with the profile taper gives it a pretty small cross section at the point. And yet it is quite strong.

[Jeremiah.Phipps]

I don't think the weight of hard Maple differs enough from Hickory to allow for a different design. i.e. I believe a Hickory with both a profile and distal taper would be too light (as was my maple waster).