Waster Care

[Guest]

Caring for your gear and equipment is very important. If you know of a few tricks for caring for WMA gear please let everyone know and share it. <img src="/forum/images/icons/tongue.gif" alt="" />

I've heard that chain mail is a pain in arse to care for because it rusts? <img src="/forum/images/icons/mad.gif" alt="" />

Hollow Earth's wordworks new waster salve, a wax coating that protects and preserves the wood during impact and scuffing. Really cool. Retails for $7 and worth every penny. <img src="/forum/images/icons/grin.gif" alt="" />

Cheers

Todd Sullivan

[Shane Smith]

I use boiled linseed oil to maintain the finish and durability of my self-made waster.

[TimSheetz]

I decided to go for the historical approach for treating my maille...

I melted beeswax and coated it onto the maille... since I didn't have enough to 'vat dip it' I brushed it on...it quickly solidified without getting into the links really well..
So I took a blow torch on a low setting and melted the wax and it worked into the links... As far as I can tell it is not rusting... though My Father has been 'armor sitting' for me for the past year and could tell you if it is rusting or not...

I have found that your mild steel armor will rust VERY quickly if you do not conduct your PMCS properly. (Preventive Maintenance Checks and Services) Keep it oiled!

[Guest]

Great advise guys. I do use linseed oil on my wasters. I don't own any chain mail yet but that great advise using bees wax. I use WD40 on my steel swords and hang them on the wall. It's not good for swords to stay in thier scabbards but I think everyone knows that. <img src="/forum/images/icons/tongue.gif" alt="" />

Todd

[Jake_Norwood]

I use boiled linseed oil--applied with a brush and wiped off with a paper towel after about 20 minutes--on my wasters. It works very well, especially if done more than monthly.

I don't have any maille, but I've read that they used to put it in a bag of sand and shake it to remove rust and to clean it. Might be worth a try.

[David Kite]

I've just been using mineral oil for my wasters. I used to PHAs method (coating liberally, letting dry, then rubbing in another thin layer), but now I just slather it on, let it dry for a while, then wipe off any excess and let it finish drying. My wasters have held up perfectly well so far.

[John_Clements]

I just started using this stuff too and it works really well, I like it. Wish it had been around before.

JC

[GaryGrzybek]

Hey Todd,

The linseed oil is very good because it soaks into the wood. The downside is that it's very flammable so you must take caution in disposing the used rags.

I now use Break Free CLP (cleaner lubricant preservative) on all my swords. It's an all purpose lubricant that stays on better than WD-40 or mineral oil. It's available at Wall Mart in the sporting goods section.

[TimSheetz]

Break free is the standard CLP that I have seen in the ARMY since 1991. Every assigned weapon I have used has been put away after cleaning with a light coat of it... and none of MY weapons ever rusted!

[Guest]

Gary turned me on to Linseed Oil and it works great.

I have tons of break free at work but I never thought of applying it to my swords, thanks Tim. <img src="/forum/images/icons/laugh.gif" alt="" />

[TimSheetz]

Todd,

Actually, the Breakfree on swords was Gary's idea... I generally use... brace yourself... motor oil.

Dan Watson recommended it and I find that though thicker than some other oils, it does not wear off as easily.

I kind of think that CLP may be a little better though...

[John_Clements]

I've always used artist's boiled linseed oil on my wooden weapons, it's common in Asian martial arts too. Over time repeated coats seem to make the wood feel heavier, and it gives it that "tacky" feel for a better grip. But I do like the results of this new wax salve. I think I'll experiment with combining them.

JC

[TimSheetz]

Sean,

I think you are referring to the silicon impregnated cloths? I don't know the answer but I think so. I certainly plan on using them for my armor... once I can find a source to buy some! haven't quite gotten around to it yet. I would think since the cloth is safe to use on a weapon that is blued, it should be safe on a non-blued piece too.

$0.02

[Jeffrey Hull]

For treating the wood of my waster, I use a mix of about 1-part boiled-linseed oil and 2-parts turpentine most of the time, so that it soaks in better, and cleans the wood as well, though a straight coat of the boiled-linseed oil now and then is good, for a thicker skin to form over the surface of the waster, after letting dry a good while. Both linseed oil and turperntine pre-date 1500, if not 1300 AD, from what I understand, and so are arguably period materials. They are more natural and wood-friendly than modern petrol-based liquids. Good luck! JH